WATCHES & STYLE
Tick Talk: Surface Tension
by Charmian Leong
15 Aug 2025
15 Aug 2025
From hand-hammered enamel to grainy alloys, these textured beauties bring depth, drama, and dimension.
- GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE U.F.A.
- PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF SPORT CHRONOGRAPH ROSE GOLD SANDSTONE
- H MOSER ENDEAVOUR CENTRE SECONDS CONCEPT PURPLE ENAMEL
- ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT
For a watch that has just become the world’s most precise timepiece powered by a mainspring, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.’s internals may well outshine its already striking exterior. U.F.A. is short for “Ultra Fine Accuracy” – and it lives up to the name. The new Calibre 9RB2 boasts an astonishing accuracy of ±20 seconds per year. This was achieved by combining a new quartz oscillator (aged three months to allow the rate to settle and stabilise before assembly), a thermally compensated and vacuum-sealed integrated circuit, and a regulation switch for fine-tuning during service.
This level of precision is made possible by a newly developed quartz oscillator (aged for three months to ensure stability before assembly), a thermally compensated, vacuum-sealed integrated circuit, and a regulation switch for fine-tuning during servicing.
At just 37mm, this is the smallest Spring Drive-powered Grand Seiko to date, but its presence is anything but modest. The dial draws inspiration from frost-covered trees in the Kirigamine Highlands near the Shinshu Watch Studio. It comes in two variants: high-intensity titanium (SLGB003) with a pale ice-blue dial, and a limited 80-piece run in platinum (SLGB001) with a deeper hue. Long-time fans will also appreciate the addition of a long-awaited micro-adjustment system on the bracelet.
(Related: Sync up in style with these timepieces)
- GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE U.F.A.
- PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF SPORT CHRONOGRAPH ROSE GOLD SANDSTONE
- H MOSER ENDEAVOUR CENTRE SECONDS CONCEPT PURPLE ENAMEL
- ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF SPORT CHRONOGRAPH ROSE GOLD SANDSTONE
The new Tonda PF Sport from Parmigiani Fleurier continues the minimalist evolution of the brand’s latest offerings, omitting the date display for a cleaner, more contemplative aesthetic.
In place of the traditional barleycorn pattern, the sandstone-toned dial features a new clou triangulaire (triangular nail) guilloche, adding a crisp, contemporary texture that pairs beautifully with the Cordura-textured rubber strap. Measuring 42mm by 12.9mm in rose gold, the watch is powered by the high-frequency, COSC-certified 5Hz PF070 calibre.
(Related: The chicest watches for frequent fliers)
- GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE U.F.A.
- PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF SPORT CHRONOGRAPH ROSE GOLD SANDSTONE
- H MOSER ENDEAVOUR CENTRE SECONDS CONCEPT PURPLE ENAMEL
- ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT
H MOSER ENDEAVOUR CENTRE SECONDS CONCEPT PURPLE ENAMEL
A sign of great design is the complete lack of branding. Even without any text, numerals, or complication, Endeavour Centre Seconds collection is unmistakably Moser, thanks in part to the brand’s dedication to dial artistry.
This edition begins with a hand-hammered surface that lends a tactile, grainy texture. Over that, a master enameler applies six different pigments to achieve a smoky fume effect that deepens seductively at the edges. The rich purple hue is matched with a kudu leather strap and framed by a 40mm stainless steel case.
- GRAND SEIKO SPRING DRIVE U.F.A.
- PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA PF SPORT CHRONOGRAPH ROSE GOLD SANDSTONE
- H MOSER ENDEAVOUR CENTRE SECONDS CONCEPT PURPLE ENAMEL
- ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT
ULYSSE NARDIN BLAST FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT
Open-worked watches are natural attention-seekers – exposed mechanics make for easy admiration. But Ulysse Nardin has gone a step further with the Blast Free Wheel Maillechort, adding a grained mainplate made from maillechort (aka German silver), an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc more commonly seen in high-end movement components than as a stage in itself.
The in-house UN-176 manual-winding calibre is just as much a showpiece, led by a flying tourbillon at six o’clock and anchored by Ulysse Nardin’s signature floating gear train. A box-style sapphire crystal allows side views of the movement, while the 45mm white gold case ensures there’s no shortage of angles to admire.
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