WATCHES & STYLE

Subscribing to Excellence

by Charmian Leong
23 May 2025

Beyond creating revolutionary watch mechanisms, Abraham-Louis Breguet reinvented how timepieces were sold. The new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 celebrates both aspects of his genius in spectacular fashion.

Abraham-Louis Breguet has left such an indelible mark on haute horlogerie that certain things have become synonymous with him. The tourbillon, pare-chute shock protection, gong springs for repeater watches, the Breguet overcoil, and of course, the unmistakable Breguet hands and numerals — all his inventions among others. But his genius extended beyond watchmaking components. The legendary watchmaker was also an astute businessman, and in the late 18th century conceived the subscription-based sales model.

These pocket watches, dubbed “Souscription” watches, required clients to place a 25 per cent deposit up front. This allowed Breguet to purchase materials and pay his artisans ahead of time, creating a more sustainable business model. He then promoted them using advertising pamphlets — arguably the first example of watch marketing — simultaneously democratising fine watchmaking and expanding his client base. By producing approximately 700 pieces across three decades, Breguet effectively established serial production, which was virtually unheard of in watchmaking at the time.

Now that his eponymous brand has arrived at a momentous 250 years of operation, it is fitting that the anniversary model would be based on a Souscription pocket watch. The Classique Souscription 2025 is named plainly, but the watch itself is anything but. Downsized from a pocket watch to a modern 40mm wristwatch with a svelte 10.8mm profile, his wristwatch eschews the traditional Classique hallmarks of coin-edge fluted case bands and rectilinear soldered lugs. Instead, it features gracefully integrated curved lugs, a satin-finished case middle, a polished domed bezel, and a flatter "cheve" sapphire crystal— another Breguet innovation that emerged during an era when highly domed crystals were in vogue.

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The pale gold hue of the case is no trick of the light either, but the result of a brand new proprietary gold alloy called “Breguet gold”, composed of 75 per cent gold and enriched with silver, copper and palladium to evoke the look of 18th-century gold — with the added bonus of resisting discolouration over time.

But Breguet’s presence is felt most keenly on the dial, where simplicity, elegance and contrast reigns. Its white Grand Feu enamel face is encircled by Breguet numerals and a railroad minute track, while the brand’s signature sits under 12 o’clock — all in black Petit Feu enamel. Mounted in the centre is a single blued steel open-tipped Breguet hand. If you look closely under just the right light and angle, a “secret signature” above six o’clock reveals itself, a once-innovative anti-counterfeiting measure that remains a Breguet hallmark today.

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The back of the case offers another visual feast, in the form of the new hand-wound VS00 calibre. The gilded brass movement gleams in the same shade as Breguet gold, and the case back is decorated with a newly developed guilloche pattern called Quai de l’Horloge, named after the street where Breguet’s original workshop once stood on the Île de la Cité. The movement’s architecture, which features a large central barrel and triangular bridges, references early Souscription calibres, while the ratchet wheel is hand-engraved with a quote from one of Breguet’s early advertisements.

Despite using design cues from a quarter of a millennium ago, the Classique Souscription 2025 is a masterclass in the type of quiet confidence that whispers of provenance while keeping perfect time with the present.

For more information, visit breguet.com