WATCHES & STYLE

Patek Philippe Unveils a Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with a Perpetual Calendar just for the Left-Handers

20 Dec 2022
SPECIAL FEATURE

The Ref. 5373-001 is a sporty technical timepiece that is a modern iteration of a unique timepiece from Patek Philippe’s archives.

It all started circa 1925 when a customer made a personal request for a left-handed timepiece: Split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold and fit with the movement no. 198‘012. What Patek Philippe took into account was repositioning the dial configuration i.e. flipping the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 o'clock to 9 and the subsidiary seconds from 9 o'clock to 3.

Naturally, this also rotates the case and the movement, moving the chronograph pusher to 9 o'clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o'clock.

When it was sold in 1927, the watch was presented in a classic vintage aesthetic. The simplicity of an all-black print against the silver dial allowed the Breguet numerals to round off its elegant presentation, coupled with the watch’s slim lugs and black leather strap finish.

A unique and historically important 18K gold cushion-shaped Patek Philippe monopusher split seconds chronograph wristwatch, made for a left-handed wearer. Image: Christie's
  • HOW IT CAME TO BE
  • A CHRONOGRAPH FOR THE LEFT-HANDERS

How it Came to be

The vintage template is a far cry from today’s Ref. 5373P iteration, but only rightly so. The nuances for a left-hand watch are evident, with the pushers and sub-dials reproduced in mimicry.

But beyond that, the watch’s modern look and additional complications are fit for the 21st century. In fact, the new Ref. 5373P took design cues from its predecessor model, the Ref. 5372P.

The Ref. 5372 operated on the same movement, namely the in-house manually-**** Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, which is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture. It’s a feat Patek Philippe has heralded in its QP watches since 2010, but not before the maison also developed the very base the current module sits on, which is the CHR 27-525 PS that first debuted in 2005, an ultra-thin column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement. 

Patek Philippe has long proved that it has all the beauty, brains, and brawn, so it’s well worth noting that the Ref. 5373P is the only remaining model carrying the Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement; the Ref. 5372P-001 and 5372P-010 have been retired from the collection.

  • HOW IT CAME TO BE
  • A CHRONOGRAPH FOR THE LEFT-HANDERS

A Chronograph for the Left-Handers

The said movement can be admired through a sapphire caseback, or otherwise enclosed in a solid platinum back (an interchangeable component that’s delivered with the watch).

Donning a black-on-black colourway, the Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph presents its full timekeeping functions on a black gradated dial and bright red hands — the chronograph, split seconds, and 60-minute subsidiary counter — to denote the timekeeping complication. 

Intricate finishes add depth and contrast to the all-black dial, such as the snailed pattern on the subsidiary dials against the vertical brushed finish on the main face. White gold dominates the dial for optimum legibility, with its entirety encased in platinum. 

Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P features a brilliant cut diamond in the caseband. In this destro (left-hand) version, it is set at 12 o'clock.

Also providing a refreshing alternative to the previous QP rattrapante versions, the watch is dressed in a black calfskin leather strap with an embossed fabric pattern and complementing contrasted red stitching, and finished in a platinum fold-over clasp.