WATCHES & STYLE

Inside Breguet’s 250-Year Journey and Anniversary Releases

by Charmian Leong
20 Oct 2025

Recently in town for the opening of Breguet’s ION Orchard boutique, CEO Gregory Kissling reflects on the maison’s 250-year legacy, the innovations behind its latest anniversary releases, and what Abraham-Louis Breguet might think today.

You joined Breguet just ahead of a momentous anniversary — not exactly a quiet onboarding. What were your priorities when you took up the reins?

I had to study a lot about the brand during my last summer holiday. But when you study horology, you inevitably study Breguet — it’s a fantasy brand in terms of history. One of my main goals was to increase communication about the brand, and we now also have a new vice president of marketing. Then I opened some drawers, discovered some very nice movements, and that’s how we began the anniversary celebrations with the Classique Souscription 2025.

And there have been new releases that quickly followed.

The history of the brand is so vast, so immense, that instead of launching just one collection on a single day, we wanted to take the entire year to highlight Breguet’s different chapters. This way, we can go into greater depth with each product.

The Souscription, for example, is truly the emblem of the anniversary collection. Without it, we probably wouldn’t be sitting here talking about the brand. [Abraham-Louis] Breguet may have invented the tourbillon in 1796 and received the patent in 1801, but it took about 10 years between the first idea and the first sale. Creating these souscription watches allowed him to pay his watchmakers and suppliers while continuing to invest in and develop other timepieces.

Was the plan to showcase one watch from each line?

Yes, because Breguet is not a mono-product brand. But the idea of this collection is also to highlight other major inventions by Breguet. The fact that you can wind a watch simply by moving your wrist is thanks to him, and he was also the first watchmaker to use platinum in a timepiece. This is why, in the Tradition

Speaking of gold, you spearheaded the development of Omega’s proprietary gold alloys when you were its Head of Product Management. Did that experience inspire you to develop Breguet Gold for this collection?

I wanted Breguet Gold to serve as a defining marker for the entire anniversary collection, linking all the pieces together. Thanks to our patrimony, we discovered that Breguet’s first gold watches were neither fully yellow nor rose, but something in between. At Omega, I developed many alloys, and while it’s never easy, knowing the direction makes the process much faster. But it’s not just about achieving the right colour — it’s also about how the alloy is manufactured, decorated, and set. For Breguet Gold, we added palladium to stabilise the hue, so it won’t fade, and it also has the advantage of being harder than stainless steel.

What else can we look forward to for the rest of the anniversary and beyond?

Oh, we have plenty of ideas — a new escapement, a new calibre. Alongside the new Quai de l’Horloge guilloche pattern, we’re also introducing another motif inspired by the Petit Trianon, Marie Antoinette’s estate, coming very soon. And we want to start exploring the duality between Paris and the Vallee de Joux. Our watchmaking expertise lies in Switzerland, but our savoir-faire originated in France, and we want to highlight that unique heritage.

What do you think Abraham-Louis would say if he were here today for the celebrations?

I think he would be proud. For most brands, there’s very little connection between their early creations and the watches in their current collections. Many are rooted in designs from the 1950s to the 1970s. But with Breguet, you can trace a clear line from an 18th century watch to one we make today. If he were here, I would also ask him to look at the materials, machines, and technologies available to us now — and tell us what he thinks is possible for the future.

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