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WATCHES & STYLE
Familiar Faces and Updates at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024
by Charmian Leong
24 Apr 2024
24 Apr 2024
Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 offered a smorgasbord of new horological delights, but here’s a first look at fan favorites that showed up with unexpected updates.
- PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME DATE REF. 5330G-001
- CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE
- TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 18K
- GRAND SEIKO CHRONOGRAPH GMT SBGC275
- CARTIER PRIVE TORTUE MONOPOUSSOIR
With a legacy of crafting world time watches dating back to the 1930s, Patek Philippe knows exactly how to balance complexity with user-friendliness. At the “Watch Art” Grand Exhibition in Tokyo last year, the first World Time with a date function – Ref. 5330G-10 – debuted with a vivid purple guilloche dial, with only 300 pieces made. But now, the non-limited Ref. 5330G-001 joins the regular collection with both a new look and a new convenience.
Using a patented central differential in the 240 HU C calibre, the date display is now able to synchronize with local time – a world first. This allows the date to automatically adjust itself forwards or backwards whenever you cross the International Date Line. The peripheral date is indicated by a red-tipped glass hand for better legibility. Unlike the Tokyo edition, the Ref. 5330G-001 showcases a “carbon” motif in the dial center, complemented by a blue-grey theme and a denim-patterned calfskin strap that makes the overall watch look elegant yet relaxed.
(Related: Mastering the minute)
- PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME DATE REF. 5330G-001
- CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE
- TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 18K
- GRAND SEIKO CHRONOGRAPH GMT SBGC275
- CARTIER PRIVE TORTUE MONOPOUSSOIR
CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE
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Chopard's patented minute repeater mechanism boasts a remarkable advantage: Immunity to the influence of the watch's case material on its sonority. First unveiled in 2016, the L.U.C Full Strike features monobloc sapphire crystal gongs that seamlessly extend from the watch’s crystal, producing incredible clarity and richness of sound. This innovative design earned it the prestigious Aiguille d’Or prize in 2017.
The Full Strike has previously been cased in precious metals and trendy colored sapphire crystal, but this year’s edition is the collection’s most modern one yet, with an anthracite-colored ceramicised titanium chassis. The matte case is paired with a verdigris-colored dial, the same hue as the natural patina that forms on oxidised copper, brass, or bronze surfaces. Ceramicised titanium, previously seen in the L.U.C GMT One Black and L.U.C Time Traveler One Black, offers exceptional scratch-resistance (with a hardness rating of 1,000 vickers, compared to standard Grade 5 titanium’s 300 vickers), lightness, and hypoallergenic properties, making it supremely comfortable to wear.
- PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME DATE REF. 5330G-001
- CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE
- TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 18K
- GRAND SEIKO CHRONOGRAPH GMT SBGC275
- CARTIER PRIVE TORTUE MONOPOUSSOIR
TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 18K
Tudor’s first gold dive watch came as a bit of a surprise in 2021, considering the Black Bay's established reputation for casual ruggedness. However, the enthusiastic reception must have been evident, as the brand has now unveiled a full gold sequel, complete with an 18k yellow gold three-link bracelet.
Despite its transition into greater opulence, Tudor's interpretation of the full gold dive watch diverges from convention by opting for a satin-finished metal, presenting a more subdued manifestation of luxury. Retaining the signature "golden green" dial and bezel, as well as the iconic snowflake hands, the Black Bay 58 18k maintains its distinctive aesthetic while embracing a new level of refinement.
- PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME DATE REF. 5330G-001
- CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE
- TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 18K
- GRAND SEIKO CHRONOGRAPH GMT SBGC275
- CARTIER PRIVE TORTUE MONOPOUSSOIR
GRAND SEIKO CHRONOGRAPH GMT SBGC275
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If you’re at all familiar with Grand Seiko, you’ll likely have seen numerous dials that celebrate the natural beauty that surrounds the brands’ workshops. The SBGC275 continues this tradition, but with an added twist to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Calibre 9R Spring Drive movement. Utilizing a patented technique called Optical Multilayer Coating, the dial subtly changes color depending on the angle the light hits. Capturing the essence of dawn in Shinshu, the birthplace of Spring Drive movements, the shimmering watch face, adorned with a "lion's mane" brushed pattern, transitions between red and amber, and even hints of magenta — a mesmerizing spectacle that photographs fail to fully capture.
Despite its substantial dimensions of 44.5mm by 16.8mm, the watch is lightweight thanks to its high-intensity titanium case and bracelet. These are further enhanced by a combination of brushed and Zaratsu-polished finishes.
- PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME DATE REF. 5330G-001
- CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE
- TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 18K
- GRAND SEIKO CHRONOGRAPH GMT SBGC275
- CARTIER PRIVE TORTUE MONOPOUSSOIR
CARTIER PRIVE TORTUE MONOPOUSSOIR
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For the eighth edition of the vintage revival-driven Prive collection, Cartier welcomes the return of the Tortue, the name meaning “tortoise” in French. First introduced in 1912, the Tortue is the second oldest among Cartier’s iconic silhouettes, preceded only by the Santos-Dumont of 1904. The monopusher chronograph variation followed suit in 1928, making it Cartier’s first chronograph, and was reimagined between 1998 and 2008 as part of the Collection Prive Cartier Paris collection.
In its latest incarnation, the case has only been lightly reworked, and most closely resembles the monopushers from the 1920s. The Roman numerals, minute track, and snailed sub counters have also been redesigned to better fill out the dial. More significantly, the watch is powered by a new shaped calibre, the 1938 MC, with a column wheel chronograph and traditional decorations. It is available in platinum or yellow gold and limited to 200 pieces in each metal.
(Related: The rebirth of an icon)
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