I finally reach Milan after a 16-hour flight – from Singapore to Zurich, and finally, Italy. The fatigue slowly sets in as I sink into the van’s seat, which will take us to Passalacqua in about 90 minutes. On the ride, I am momentarily energised by my curiosity – raring to see why a 24‑room villa has become a name constantly praised in almost every travel publication, even clinching the top spot on The World’s 50 Best Hotels in 2023. When we arrive and pass through the property’s wrought iron gates, I immediately understand.
- PASSALACQUA: LUXURY LAKEHOUSE LIVING
- GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO: CLASSIC LAKESIDE GLAMOUR

Passalacqua’s 18th‑century façade faces seven acres of terraced gardens that glide toward the water, and the restoration (completed by the De Santis family, fronted by CEO Valentina De Santis) has left its dramatic frescoed ceilings, opulent marble floors, and discreet scars of age intact.
Inside the main villa, twelve high‑ceilinged rooms showcase Murano chandeliers and marble baths, while the showpiece Bellini Suite stretches to 2,700 square feet and houses the biggest chandelier I’ve ever seen, as well as an elegant grand piano. As we continue our exploration of the grounds, we discover eight additional rooms that sit above the spa in the Palazz wing, with their jewel‑toned walls overlooking olive trees. Meanwhile, four cottage‑style suites in Casa al Lago open straight onto the lawn and lake.
At the rooms and suites, smooth Frette linens, Dyson hair tools, luxurious house brand amenities, and a minibar generously filled with local snacks and drinks come standard, but the real standout, I soon discover, is the two‑to‑one staff ratio, which makes service intuitive, but not overly formal.
(Related: Checking in at FORESTIS - a bucketlist-worthy retreat in Italy)

Passalacqua handles food with the same relaxed precision. Two all‑day kitchens stay open for drop‑ins, their chalkboard menus regularly changing. Guests can also book a farm‑to‑table tasting in the former orangerie, sign up for a pasta‑making class that ends with lunch on a terrace, or request a private dinner in the frescoed Sala della Musica.
By mid‑afternoon, the fatigue I initially felt has been replaced with a sense of calm having tasted estate olive oil, enjoyed a multi-course Italian lunch, and visited the spa’s underground treatment areas – an 18th‑century passageway that now houses a heated pool, sauna rooms, and relaxing corners. There is also an open‑air gym in the olive grove, a panoramic freshwater pool, and a lakeside clay court where one can occasionally spot swans drifting past the baseline.

Before the evening settles, someone appears with a double espresso at the bar, handing it over without me even asking. I take it to the terrace, look out at the lake and listen to the gentle classical music piped through hidden speakers, and finally understand Passalacqua’s reputation of being the best of the best.
- PASSALACQUA: LUXURY LAKEHOUSE LIVING
- GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO: CLASSIC LAKESIDE GLAMOUR
Grand Hotel Tremezzo: Classic Lakeside Glamour

The following day, we are driven fifteen minutes north to Tremezzina, where Grand Hotel Tremezzo rises in confident Art Nouveau curves, featuring a stylish façade that’s straight out of a Wes Anderson film. Opened in 1910 and also run by the De Santis family, the palace holds 84 rooms, yet somehow keeps a personal touch.
Entry‑level Park‑View Rooms look out to green views, while identically sized Lake‑View Rooms frame Bellagio so perfectly that I wouldn’t be surprised if guests justify a small upgrade on the spot. Historic Suites expand into separate salons dressed in period furniture, while Rooftop Suites push indulgence further with terraces, outdoor jacuzzis, and even a butler on call.


The dining programme at Grand Hotel Tremezzo spans the spectrum. La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi serves the late maestro’s signatures like gold‑leaf saffron risotto and open raviolo of sea bass on a lake‑edge terrace. L’Escale transforms local produce into modern trattoria fare; Da Giacomo al Lago, with juicy orange beach umbrellas all around, imports Milan’s celebrated seafood institution to the hotel’s private beach; TPizza fires blistered Neapolitan pizzas beside the flower‑lined pool; while TBar extends aperitivo into midnight with tableside‑mixed Americanos.
Activity options here are equally plentiful: Three pools (the floating Water‑on‑the‑Water, a garden pool, and TSpa’s infinity strip), clay tennis courts, e‑bikes, water‑ski lessons, as well as a fitness studio with Peloton bikes. TSpa itself offers hammam rituals and Natura Bissé treatments. In addition, staff can arrange Riva charters, guided villa visits, or simply ferry you next door to Villa Carlotta before the tour groups arrive.

While Passalacqua and Grand Hotel Tremezzo share ownership and an eye for detail, both deliver contrasting points-of-view: The former offers the intimacy of a private villa, while the latter, the breadth of a classic resort. Transfers are effortless – luggage travels by road while you glide across the water, and moving from Moltrasio’s quiet southern shore to Tremezzina’s livelier location gives a more holistic Lake Como picture. Starting at Passalacqua eases you into lake time, while finishing at Tremezzo layers on energy before the next adventure – whether in Italy or elsewhere.